Jewelry Glossary
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10k
A gold alloy that includes 41.7% pure gold and 58.3% alloy.
14k
A gold alloy that includes 58.5% pure gold and 41.5% alloy.
18k
A gold alloy that includes 75% pure gold and 25% alloy.
24k
A gold or gold alloy that is over 99.95% pure gold.
A
A
A Jour
An open setting that leaves the pavilion facets open to the light.
Abalone
A deposit made from inside a seashell.
Abraded Culet
A chipped or scratched culet.
Abrasion
A bruise or scratch on the surface of a stone.
Accent
A jewelry piece or design element that is meant to draw attention to a different focal point.
Agate
A variety of chalcedony found in all colors.
AGS
American Gem Society: a professional organization formed in 1934 by several independent jewelers.
Aigrette
A hair ornament consisting of a feather plume or spray of glitter, often accentuated by either a jewel or buckle.
Alexandrite
A variation of Chrysoberyl, with the unique ability of changing color in natural or artificial light.
Alloy
A combination of metals fused together.
Aluminum
A silver/white metal that is lightweight and malleable.
Amazonite
An opaque form of feldspar.
Amber
The fossilized resin of prehistoric pine trees, which ranges in color from golden to orange-red.
Amethyst
A clear purple, blue, or violet variety of crystallized quartz.
Amulet
A pendant or charm that is worn for its protective or magical powers.
Anneal
The process of hardening glass pottery or metal, by alternately heating and pounding it.
Anniversary Band
A ring--often an eternity band--which is given to commemorate an anniversary.
Anodized
A process in which a metal object is placed in an acid bath and an electrical current is passed through the tank.
Antique
Any object which was created at least 100 years ago.
Antiquing
The process of darkening the recessed areas of gold or silver jewelry to enhance the visibility of the engraving.
Antwerp
Perhaps the most noteworthy and versatile diamond-cutting center in the world.
Appraisal
A monetary evaluation, usually performed for insurance purposes by a certified gemologist.
Aquamarine
A transparent blue, blue-green, or green variety of Beryl, often considered a semi-precious gemstone.
Arabesque
Flowing scroll work epitomized by curlicues in low relief.
Art Deco
A style characterized by angular geometric shapes, zigzags, bold colors, molded or faceted Czech glass beads, and chrome.
Art Nouveau
Known for its flowing style with sinuous curves and naturalistic motifs.
Articulated
Jewelry constructed with hinges that allow for flexibility, or other moving parts.
Arts and Crafts
A design movement that began in the late 1800s as a rebellion against mass-produced designs.
Assay
The process of establishing the purity standards for gold, silver, and other alloys.
Asscher Cut
An octagonal diamond cut.
Aurora Borealis
The Latin term for Northern Lights.
B
B
Baguette Cut
A rectangular diamond cut with four corners that create a rectangle or four-sided polygon.
Bail
The connector at the top of a pendant, which allows the pendant to hang from a chain or jump ring.
Bakelite
A synthetic material, patented in 1909, used in jewelry extensively during the U.S. Great Depression.
Bandeau
A narrow band, worn low, which encircles the forehead as a head ornament.
Bangle
A traditionally rigid, non-flexible bracelet.
Baroque
A general term for bold, ornate, heavy looking ornamentation.
Basse-taille
A technique of applying glass enamel to a metal surface.
Bearding
Small, feather-like cracks along the girdle of a diamond.
Belle Epoque
Another term for the Edwardian period.
Berlin Iron
Cast iron jewelry, worked into delicate openwork patterns, made in Berlin during the 19th century.
Beryl
A mineral consisting of a silicate of beryllium and aluminum of great hardness that occurs in various colors.
Bezel
A setting for a stone that has a collar instead of prongs, in order to secure the stone.
Bijouterie
The art of working in gold and enamel.
Birthstone
A gemstone that is symbolically associated with the month of one's birth.
Biwa Pearl
A freshwater, cultured pearl from Japan.
Black Antique
A jewelry piece that has had a long-lasting black paint applied to it.
Black Star of Queensland
A 733 carat black sapphire, previously thought to be the world's largest gem quality star sapphire.
Blemish
A flaw, spot, or scratch on the surface of a gemstone.
Bling
A general term for flashy jewelry, often worn as an indication of affluence.
Blister Pearl
An irregularly shaped and hollow pearl, cut from the shell of an oyster.
Blue Topaz
A topaz that is light brown or colorless when mined, which turns a vivid blue when exposed to heat.
Bog Oak
Wood that was preserved over thousands of years in the bogs of Ireland, which was hard enough to be carved.
Bolt ring
A finding that is entirely or partially hollow, drawn back on an internal spring, which connects rings.
Book Chain
A Victorian style of chain made in solid gold or sterling silver, where links resemble a book.
Borax
A flux used in soldering.
Box Setting
A stone, enclosed in a box-shaped setting with metal edges that are pressed down to hold the stone in place.
Bracelet
An ornamental band or chain worn around the wrist.
Braided
A jewelry design element in which multiple strands of an often precious metal appear to be woven together.
Brass
An alloy made up of roughly half copper and half zinc, which has a nice yellow color.
Brilliance
The intensity and amount of light reflecting from inside a diamond or gemstone.
Brilliant cut
The standard cut style for diamonds consisting of a total of 58 facets.
Briolette
A pear-shaped, faceted stone.
Bronze
A very dense, heavy alloy of 60% Copper and 40% Tin.
Brooch
Either a large pin, or an ornamental piece of jewelry with a pin and clasp to be attached to clothing.
Brushed Finish
A texturing technique used on metals, where a series of tiny parallel lines are scratched onto the surface.
Buff top cabochon
A style of stone cutting, where the top of the gemstone is a dome and the pavilion is faceted.
Bulla
Two concave plates that form a hollow receptacle.
C
C
C catch
The most common means of securing a brooch before safety catches were invented.
Cable
A wire, often made of a precious or semi-precious metal, used in jewelry making.
Cabochon
Dome-shaped stone, without facets.
CAD
An acronym for computer aided design.
Calibre Cut
Small stones that are faceted and cut into squares, rectangles, or oblongs, and set close together.
Caliper
An instrument for determining the thickness or diameter of a gemstone.
Cameo
A layered stone, frequently made from banded agate or sea shell, that has been carved.
Canary Diamond
A vibrant yellow variation of Diamond.
Cannetille
A firework decoration, which uses coiled and twisted gold wire to achieve a delicate, scrolling effect.
Carat
A unit of weight for diamonds and other gemstones.
Carbide
A compound of Carbon which has a more electropositive element.
Carbon-Fiber
A strong, lightweight, synthetic fiber made especially by carbonizing acrylic fiber.
Carbuncle
A garnet cut en cabochon.
Carnelian
A translucent red or orange variety of chalcedony.
Cartouche
A swirling or scroll-like decoration that is most often a symmetrical design and is usually engraved.
Casting
A method of shaping metal by melting and then pouring into a hollow mold.
Cathedral Setting
An elegant setting whose intention is to display the center stone as a focal point.
Celluloid
A very thin, highly flammable plastic containing camphor.
Celtic
Designs that are derived from the ancient Irish, Gaelic, British, Scottish, and Welsh symbols.
Center Stone
A precious or semi-precious gemstone placed within an engagement ring.
D
D
Dainty
A piece marked by delicate or diminutive beauty, form, or grace.
Damascene
A type of jewelry that, today, most often comes from Spain.
Damascus steel
A steel ornamented with wavy, sometimes zebra-like patterns.
Danglers
An earring style that includes a focal point which drops below the earlobe and is intentionally flexible.
Demi-parure
A partial set of jewelry.
Depose
The rights or patent granted for an exclusive jewelry design in France.
Depth
The distance from a gemstone's table to its culet (top to bottom).
Depth percentage
The measurement of a gemstone's depth (top to bottom) in relation to its diameter.
Diadems
A semi-circular band worn around the head, which is usually jeweled and three dimensional.
Diamond
A mineral composed of carbon that crystallizes in the cubic or isometric crystal system.
Diamond Cut
A name sometimes used in the colored-stone trade for brilliant cut.
Dog Collar
A snug necklace made either of rows of pearls or beads, which is usually worn high up on the neck.
Domed
A gemstone shape in which the top of the stone is rounded, resembling half of a sphere.
Double Prong
A jewelry setting in which each prong contains another prong alongside it.
Dresden Green Diamond
A 41 carat natural green diamond of unknown origin.
Drop
An earring style that includes a focal point which drops below the earlobe.
Duette
A combination of two clips on a pin back.
E
E
Earrings
An ornament for the ear, most commonly worn in the earlobe.
East-West
A stone that is set with its elongated sides parallel to the band.
Eco-friendly
A jewelry piece whose sourcing or creation was not harmful to the environment.
Edwardian
A style popular from approximately 1890 until shortly before World War I.
Electro-plating
Applying metal (usually gold) to another surface using electrical current.
Elegant
Of a high grade or quality.
Emerald
A gemstone of the beryl family.
Emerald Cut
An octagon shape emphasizing long parallel step cuts with clipped corners.
Empire earrings
The distinctive hoop shape of Roman earrings from roughly 1st century BC.
En Tremblant
A movable, trembling effect achieved through coiled springs of metal.
Enamel
Glass powder applied to metal and fired in an oven.
Engagement
The period between proposal and marriage.
Engagement Ring
A ring given in betrothal.
Engraving
Decorating metal by etching a design into its surface.
Enhancer
A hinged loop that attaches a pendant to a chain.
Estate Jewelry
Sentimental jewelry that is part of a deceased person's estate.
Etching
Removal of metal by acid for decorative effect.
Eternity Band
A continuous line of identically cut gemstones.
Etui
Small case hanging from a chatelaine.
Euro-shank
A ring shank with a flat or squarish bottom.
European Cut
A style popular from 1890-1930 with a round girdle.
Extinction
Dark spots in a colored stone.
Eye-clean
Gemstones whose flaws aren't visible without a 10x loupe.
F
F
Facet
A plain, polished surface on a stone.
Faience
Glazed porcelain or earthenware.
Fancy Cut
Any diamond cut style other than round brilliant.
Fashion Ring
A ring worn for decorative purposes.
Faux
French for false or imitation.
Feather
An internal inclusion with a feathery look.
Fede ring
A ring showing two hands clasped.
Ferronniere
A narrow band encircling the forehead with a jewel.
Festoon
A design motif of a garland.
Fibula
Archaeological term for brooch.
Filigree
Intricately interlaced thin wires.
Findings
Construction components like clasps or pins.
Finish
The polish or texture applied to metal.
Fire
Flashes of color resulting from light dispersion.
Flat Band
A band squared on the edges, not domed.
Flaw
Internal or external stone characteristics.
Flawless
No discernible blemishes under 10x magnification.
Fleur-de-lis
Stylized three-petaled iris.
Floral
Designs depicting plants or flowers.
G
G
Girandole
Three pear-shaped stones hanging from a larger motif.
Girdle
The outer edge or periphery of a stone.
Gold
Yellow metallic element used in jewelry.
Gold Washed
An extremely thin layer of gold applied by dipping.
Gold-Filled
Thick layer of gold bonded to base metal.
Gold-Plated
Thin layer of gold bonded to base metal.
Golden Jubilee Diamond
A 545.67 carat brown diamond.
Grading
Evaluation by independent gemologists.
Granulation
Decorating metal with tiny grains.
Graver Tool
Chisel-like tool for engraving.
Green Gold
Gold containing high proportion of silver.
Grey Gold
Gold containing high proportion of iron.
Grill
Removable jewelry worn over the teeth.
Grisaille
Monochromatic painted enamel.
Guilloche Enamel
Enamel achieved by engine-turning metal.
Gypsy Setting
Stone sunk almost level with the metal surface.
H
H
Half Moon Cut
Gemstone cut resembling half a circle.
Hallmark
Stamps attesting to metal purity.
Halo
Setting encircling a center stone.
Hammered Finish
Creating tiny planes with a hammer.
Hand Engraving
Etching designs using hand tools.
Hardness
Resistance to being scratched.
Head
The portion holding the stone.
Heart Cut
Heart-shaped diamond cut.
Heirloom
Jewelry descending through generations.
Hematite
Iron ore in crystalline form.
Hoop
Circular earring passing through the lobe.
Hope Diamond
A 45.52 carat blue diamond.
Horn
Tortoiseshell substitute.
I
I
Ideal²
Square diamond with hearts & arrows.
IGI
International Gemological Institute.
Igneous
Rock formed by magma or lava.
Imperfection
Stone characteristics.
Inclusion
Fractures or foreign objects inside a stone.
Ingot
Bar of precious metal.
Initials
First letters of a name.
Inlaid
Material set into a surface.
Inlay
Embedding a stone into metal.
Intaglio
Design carved down into a stone.
Interlocking
Pieces that lock together.
Intertwined
Overlap bands.
Invisible Setting
Diamonds resting perfectly flush.
Iridescent
Rainbow-like colors.
Iridium
Member of platinum family.
Irradiation
Treatment to enhance color.
Ivory
Substance from tusks.
J
J
Jabot pin
Jeweled tie pin.
Jade
Opaque stone usually in green.
Jadeite
Hard, translucent jade.
Jasper
Opaque variety of Quartz.
Jet
Black variety of fossilized coal.
K
K
Karat
Unit of gold fineness.
Knife Edge
Shank forming a middle point.
Knot
Interlaced curved metal pieces.
L
L
Lavaliere
Chain with a center ornament.
Leakage
Light escaping through facets.
Lever Back
Earring back using a clasp.
Liquid silver
Strands of small silver beads.
Living Jewelry
Materials from living organisms.
Locket
Hinged opening case.
Logan Sapphire
A 422.99 carat blue sapphire.
London Blue Topaz
Dark blue-green topaz.
Lost Wax Process
Casting using wax and clay.
Loupe
Small magnifying glass.
Low-Profile
Low-set center stone.
Lucite
Clear span plastic.
Luster
Light reflected from surface.
Luxury
An extravagant jewelry piece.
M
M
Mabe
Half-formed cultured pearls.
Maltese Cross
Shape with four broad arms.
Marcasite
Pyrite faceted into rose cuts.
Marquis Cut
Elongated oval tapering to points.
Marquise Cut
Diamond cut with points at ends.
Master Stones
Diamonds used as key to grade color.
Matching
Set with matching elements.
Matte
Non-shiny chemical or abrasive finish.
N
N
Nacre
Shiny substance creating pearls.
Natural Diamond
Earth-formed diamond.
Navette
Ring shaped like a marquise.
Necklace
Ornament worn around neck.
Negligee
Long irregular length necklace.
Nickel Silver
White metal with no silver.
Niello
Black inlay technique.
O
O
Oiling
Temporary color enhancement.
Old Euro Cut
Antique round diamond cut.
Old European Cut
Antique round diamond cut.
Old Mine Cut
Antique cushion diamond cut.
Onyx
Black or white semi-precious stone.
Opal
Iridescent semi-precious stone.
Opalescent
Lustrous cloudy rainbow array.
Opaque
Stone allowing no light through.
Open Back Setting
Setting where back of stone is visible.
Oppenheimer Diamond
A 253.7 carat yellow diamond.
Ore
Mineral yielding metal profitably.
Organic
Made from living organisms.
Orient
Characteristic sheen of pearls.
Oriental Pearl
Pearl formed naturally.
Oval Cut
Elongated faceted stone.
Oxidation
Blackening reaction in metals.
Oxide
Oxygen atom compound.
Oxidize
Combine with oxygen.
Oxygen
Nonmetallic colorless gas.
P
P
Polished
Smooth glossy finish.
Pomander
Case for scented objects.
Popigai Crater
Site of large diamond deposit.
Poseidon
Greek god of the sea.
Posy Ring
Ring engraved with a verse.
Pot Metal
Non-precious alloys.
Precious Gemstone
Rare high-value stone.
Precious Metal
Rare malleable metals.
Princess Cut
Highly faceted square cut.
Prong Setting
Stone held by wires.
Proportion
Mathematical symmetry of stone.
Proposal
Offering of marriage.
Q
Q
Quartz
Naturally occurring crystals composed of Silica.
R
R
Radiant Cut
Rectangular gemstone combining emerald shape and brilliant sparkle.
Rails
Metal edges lining melee settings.
Refinishing
Restoring initial state of finish.
Refraction
Changing direction of light wave.
Regard
Jewelry spelling a word with stone types.
Relief
Raised protrusion from surface.
Repousse
Hammered high relief design.
Restoration
Restoring aged piece to former appearance.
Rhinestone
Faceted glass stone.
Rhodium
Platinum family member.
Rhodolite
Pink or purple garnet.
Ring
Circular band for the finger.
Ring Sizes
Measurement of circumference.
Riveting
Joining objects with screws.
Riviere
Continuous line of gemstones necklace.
Rock Crystal
See Quartz.
Rolled Gold
Gold plating method.
Rondelle
Pierced metal between beads.
Rosary
Beads for counting prayers.
Rose Cut
Flat base and dome multifaceted top.
Rose Finish
Look of rose gold without gold content.
Rose Gold
Gold alloyed with copper.
Rose Quartz
Translucent milky-pink quartz.
Rosser Reeves Ruby
A 138.7 carat star ruby.
Round Cut
Most common cutting style.
Rubellite
Red or pink tourmaline.
Ruby
Red corundum from chromium oxide.
Rutilated
Quartz with inclusion of rutile.
S
S
Safety Catch
Securing brooch with swiveling lock.
Salt-and-Pepper Diamond
Diamond with black-and-white inclusions.
Sand Casting
Casting with packed sand.
Sandblasted
Intentionally abraised coarse finish.
Sapphire
Gem variety of corundum.
Signet
Private seal impressed in wax.
Silver Tone
Plated or coated silver look.
Simulated Stones
Imitation substances.
Single-cut Diamonds
Genuine diamond with 1 facet.
Slide
Jeweled fastener on chain.
Smoky Quartz
Cloudy brown to dark quartz.
Snake Chain
Flexible tube chain.
Solder
Joining metals with melted alloy.
Soldering
Applying molten metal to join.
Solid Diamond
Pressurized lab created diamonds.
Solitaire
Ring with single stone.
Sparkle
Reflecting bright points of light.
Spinel
Magnesium and aluminum oxide stone.
Split Prong
Split prong holding stone.
Split Ring
Resembling key-ring finding.
Split Shank
Band parting near the head.
Spring Ring
Common kind of clasp.
Square Band
Not rounded at edges.
Square Cut
Resembling emerald cut.
Stabilized Turquoise
Treated turquoise.
Stackable Rings
Intended to be worn on top of each other.
Stainless Steel
Steel alloy with chromium.
Stamping
Cut or emboss metal with mark.
Star 129
Round diamond with 129 facets.
Step Cut
Long rectangular facets.
Sterling Silver
92.5% pure silver.
Stomacher
Large bodice ornament.
Strap Necklace
Mesh chain with fringe pendants.
Strapwork
Interlaced straight bands motif.
Stud
Minimalist focal point on post.
Super Fit Ring
Ring that opens and closes.
Swag
Festoons of foliage and fruit.
Symmetry
Uniformity of gemstone cut.
Synthetic Gemstones
Laboratory produced stone.
T
T
Table
Large facet capping the crown.
Table Percentage
Diameter divided by table size.
Table-cut
See step cut.
Tahitian Pearl
Black lip oyster pearl.
Tanzanite
Brilliant violet gemstone.
Tapered
Gradually smaller toward one end.
Tapered Baguette
Trapezoid cut stone.
Tarnish
Dulled luster from thin deposits.
Tennis Bracelet
Continuous line of gemstones.
Tension Setting
Stone held by pressure.
Terminal
Decorated ends of necklace.
Textured
Surface that is not smooth.
Three Stone
Ring with three stones in row.
Tiara
Crown position head ornament.
Tin
Silvery metallic element.
Titanium
Strong lightweight metallic element.
Toggle Clasp
Ring and bar fastener.
Tolkowsky, Marcel
Defined round diamond proportions.
Topaz
Aluminum borosilicate stone.
Torsade
Twisted strands of pearls.
Tortoise Shell
Mottled brown shell material.
Tourmaline
Multi-colored complex borosilicate.
Tracer Band
Contoured flush band.
Translucent
Partially transparent.
Trapezoid Cut
Four-sided shape cut.
Trellis
Interwoven prong setting.
Tremblant
General term for jewelry with a trembling effect.
Trillion Cut
Triangular shaped diamond cut.
Tsavorite
Green variation of garnet.
Tubogas
Flexible tubular chain.
Tungsten
Heavy high-melting metallic element.
Turquoise
Robin's egg blue stone.
Tutti Frutti
Jewelry set with multi-colored gems in basket design.
Twisted
Curved interwoven bands.
Two-Tone
Two separate metals soldered.
U
U
Ultrasonic
Cleaning device using waves.
Unique
Distinguishable from others.
Unisex
Jewelry for all sexes.
V
V
Vermeil
Silver with gold plating.
Victorian
Designation for 1837-1901 period.
Vintage
Recognized enduring piece.
W
W
Wedding
Marriage ceremony.
Wedding Set
Engagement ring and wedding band.
White Gold
Gold alloy with nickel/palladium.
White Metal
Non-precious metal combination.
Wood
Hard fibrous tree substance.
Woven
Strands of metal interlaced.
Wrist Watch
Watch attached to bracelet.
Y
Y
Yellow Gold
Gold in pure form alloyed with copper.
Z
Z
Zinc
Lustrous metallic element.
Zircon
Common mineral polished into gemstone.
Zoisite
Semi-precious variety of colors.