0–9

10k A gold alloy that includes 41.7% pure gold and 58.3% alloy.

14k A gold alloy that includes 58.5% pure gold and 41.5% alloy.

18k A gold alloy that includes 75% pure gold and 25% alloy.

24k A gold or gold alloy that is over 99.95% pure gold.

A

A Jour An open setting that leaves the pavilion facets open to the light.

Abalone A deposit made from inside a seashell.

Abraded Culet A chipped or scratched culet.

Abrasion A bruise or scratch on the surface of a stone.

Accent A jewelry piece or design element that is meant to draw attention to a different focal point.

Agate A variety of chalcedony found in all colors.

AGS American Gem Society: a professional organization formed in 1934 by several independent jewelers.

Aigrette A hair ornament consisting of a feather plume or spray of glitter, often accentuated by either a jewel or buckle.

Alexandrite A variation of Chrysoberyl, with the unique ability of changing color in natural or artificial light.

Alloy A combination of metals fused together.

Aluminum A silver/white metal that is lightweight and malleable.

Amazonite An opaque form of feldspar.

Amber The fossilized resin of prehistoric pine trees, which ranges in color from golden to orange-red.

Amethyst A clear purple, blue, or violet variety of crystallized quartz.

Amulet A pendant or charm that is worn for its protective or magical powers.

Anneal To heat metal and let it cool slowly, which softens it and relieves stress so it can be worked further.

Anniversary Band A ring–often an eternity band–which is given to commemorate an anniversary.

Anodized A process in which a metal object is placed in an acid bath and an electrical current is passed through the tank.

Antique Any object which was created at least 100 years ago.

Antiquing The process of darkening the recessed areas of gold or silver jewelry to enhance the visibility of the engraving.

Antwerp Perhaps the most noteworthy and versatile diamond-cutting center in the world.

Appraisal A monetary evaluation, usually performed for insurance purposes by a certified gemologist.

Aquamarine A transparent blue, blue-green, or green variety of Beryl, often considered a semi-precious gemstone.

Arabesque Flowing scroll work epitomized by curlicues in low relief.

Art Deco A style characterized by angular geometric shapes, zigzags, bold colors, molded or faceted Czech glass beads, and chrome.

Art Nouveau Known for its flowing style with sinuous curves and naturalistic motifs.

Articulated Jewelry constructed with hinges that allow for flexibility, or other moving parts.

Arts and Crafts A design movement that began in the late 1800s as a rebellion against mass-produced designs.

Assay The process of establishing the purity standards for gold, silver, and other alloys.

Asscher Cut An octagonal diamond cut.

B

Baguette Cut A rectangular diamond cut with four corners that create a rectangle or four-sided polygon.

Bail The connector at the top of a pendant, which allows the pendant to hang from a chain or jump ring.

Bakelite A synthetic material, patented in 1909, used in jewelry extensively during the U.S. Great Depression.

Bandeau A narrow band, worn low, which encircles the forehead as a head ornament.

Bangle A traditionally rigid, non-flexible bracelet.

Baroque A general term for bold, ornate, heavy looking ornamentation.

Basse-taille A technique of applying glass enamel to a metal surface.

Bearding Small, feather-like cracks along the girdle of a diamond.

Belle Epoque Another term for the Edwardian period.

Berlin Iron Cast iron jewelry, worked into delicate openwork patterns, made in Berlin during the 19th century.

Beryl A mineral consisting of a silicate of beryllium and aluminum of great hardness that occurs in various colors.

Bezel A setting for a stone that has a collar instead of prongs, in order to secure the stone.

Bijouterie The art of working in gold and enamel.

Birthstone A gemstone that is symbolically associated with the month of one’s birth.

Biwa Pearl A freshwater, cultured pearl from Japan.

Black Antique A jewelry piece that has had a long-lasting black paint applied to it.

Black Star of Queensland A 733 carat black sapphire, previously thought to be the world’s largest gem quality star sapphire.

Blemish A flaw, spot, or scratch on the surface of a gemstone.

Blister Pearl An irregularly shaped and hollow pearl, cut from the shell of an oyster.

Blue Topaz A topaz that is light brown or colorless when mined, which turns a vivid blue when exposed to heat.

Bog Oak Wood that was preserved over thousands of years in the bogs of Ireland, which was hard enough to be carved.

Bolt ring A finding that is entirely or partially hollow, drawn back on an internal spring, which connects rings.

Book Chain A Victorian style of chain made in solid gold or sterling silver, where links resemble a book.

Borax A flux used in soldering.

Box Setting A stone, enclosed in a box-shaped setting with metal edges that are pressed down to hold the stone in place.

Bracelet An ornamental band or chain worn around the wrist.

Braided A jewelry design element in which multiple strands of an often precious metal appear to be woven together.

Brass An alloy of copper and zinc, with a warm yellow color.

Brilliance The intensity and amount of light reflecting from inside a diamond or gemstone.

Brilliant cut The standard cut style for diamonds consisting of a total of 58 facets.

Briolette A pear-shaped, faceted stone.

Bronze An alloy of copper and tin, typically around 88% copper and 12% tin.

Brooch Either a large pin, or an ornamental piece of jewelry with a pin and clasp to be attached to clothing.

Brushed Finish A texturing technique used on metals, where a series of tiny parallel lines are scratched onto the surface.

Buff top cabochon A style of stone cutting, where the top of the gemstone is a dome and the pavilion is faceted.

Bulla Two concave plates that form a hollow receptacle.

C

C catch The most common means of securing a brooch before safety catches were invented.

Cable A wire, often made of a precious or semi-precious metal, used in jewelry making.

Cabochon Dome-shaped stone, without facets.

CAD An acronym for computer aided design.

Calibre Cut Small stones that are faceted and cut into squares, rectangles, or oblongs, and set close together.

Caliper An instrument for determining the thickness or diameter of a gemstone.

Cameo A layered stone, frequently made from banded agate or sea shell, that has been carved.

Canary Diamond A vibrant yellow variation of Diamond.

Cannetille A firework decoration, which uses coiled and twisted gold wire to achieve a delicate, scrolling effect.

Carat A unit of weight for diamonds and other gemstones.

Carbide A compound of Carbon which has a more electropositive element.

Carbon-Fiber A strong, lightweight, synthetic fiber made especially by carbonizing acrylic fiber.

Carbuncle A garnet cut en cabochon.

Carnelian A translucent red or orange variety of chalcedony.

Cartouche A swirling or scroll-like decoration that is most often a symmetrical design and is usually engraved.

Casting A method of shaping metal by melting and then pouring into a hollow mold.

Cathedral Setting An elegant setting whose intention is to display the center stone as a focal point.

Celluloid A very thin, highly flammable plastic containing camphor.

Celtic Designs that are derived from the ancient Irish, Gaelic, British, Scottish, and Welsh symbols.

Center Stone A precious or semi-precious gemstone placed within an engagement ring.

CVD Chemical vapor deposition: a method of growing diamond layer by layer from a carbon-rich gas onto a diamond seed.

D

Damascene A type of jewelry that, today, most often comes from Spain.

Damascus steel A steel ornamented with wavy, sometimes zebra-like patterns.

Danglers An earring style that includes a focal point which drops below the earlobe and is intentionally flexible.

Demi-parure A partial set of jewelry.

Depose The rights or patent granted for an exclusive jewelry design in France.

Depth The distance from a gemstone’s table to its culet (top to bottom).

Depth percentage The measurement of a gemstone’s depth (top to bottom) in relation to its diameter.

Diadems A semi-circular band worn around the head, which is usually jeweled and three dimensional.

Diamond A mineral of pure carbon crystallized in the cubic system. Diamonds may be mined or grown in a laboratory; both have the same chemical, physical and optical properties.

Diamond Cut A name sometimes used in the colored-stone trade for brilliant cut.

Dog Collar A snug necklace made either of rows of pearls or beads, which is usually worn high up on the neck.

Domed A gemstone shape in which the top of the stone is rounded, resembling half of a sphere.

Double Prong A jewelry setting in which each prong contains another prong alongside it.

Dresden Green Diamond A 41 carat natural green diamond of unknown origin.

Drop An earring style that includes a focal point which drops below the earlobe.

Duette A combination of two clips on a pin back.

E

Earrings An ornament for the ear, most commonly worn in the earlobe.

East-West A stone that is set with its elongated sides parallel to the band.

Edwardian A style popular from approximately 1890 until shortly before World War I.

Electro-plating Applying metal (usually gold) to another surface using electrical current.

Emerald A gemstone of the beryl family.

Emerald Cut An octagon shape emphasizing long parallel step cuts with clipped corners.

Empire earrings The distinctive hoop shape of Roman earrings from roughly 1st century BC.

En Tremblant A movable, trembling effect achieved through coiled springs of metal.

Enamel Glass powder applied to metal and fired in an oven.

Engagement Ring A ring given in betrothal.

Engraving Decorating metal by etching a design into its surface.

Enhancer A hinged loop that attaches a pendant to a chain.

Estate Jewelry Sentimental jewelry that is part of a deceased person’s estate.

Etching Removal of metal by acid for decorative effect.

Eternity Band A continuous line of identically cut gemstones.

Etui Small case hanging from a chatelaine.

Euro-shank A ring shank with a flat or squarish bottom.

European Cut A style popular from 1890-1930 with a round girdle.

Extinction Dark spots in a colored stone.

Eye-clean A diamond or gemstone whose inclusions cannot be seen face-up with the naked eye at a normal viewing distance.

F

Facet A plain, polished surface on a stone.

Faience Glazed porcelain or earthenware.

Fancy Cut Any diamond cut style other than round brilliant.

Fashion Ring A ring worn for decorative purposes.

Faux French for false or imitation.

Feather An internal inclusion with a feathery look.

Fede ring A ring showing two hands clasped.

Ferronniere A narrow band encircling the forehead with a jewel.

Festoon A design motif of a garland.

Fibula Archaeological term for brooch.

Filigree Intricately interlaced thin wires.

Findings Construction components like clasps or pins.

Finish The polish or texture applied to metal.

Fire Flashes of color resulting from light dispersion.

Flat Band A band squared on the edges, not domed.

Flaw Internal or external stone characteristics.

Flawless A clarity grade (FL): no inclusions or blemishes visible to a skilled grader under 10x magnification.

Fleur-de-lis Stylized three-petaled iris.

Floral Designs depicting plants or flowers.

G

Girandole Three pear-shaped stones hanging from a larger motif.

Girdle The outer edge or periphery of a stone.

Gold Yellow metallic element used in jewelry.

Gold Washed An extremely thin layer of gold applied by dipping.

Gold-Filled Thick layer of gold bonded to base metal.

Gold-Plated Thin layer of gold bonded to base metal.

Golden Jubilee Diamond A 545.67 carat brown diamond.

Grading The evaluation of a diamond or gemstone by a gemologist, usually recorded in a laboratory report.

Granulation Decorating metal with tiny grains.

Graver Tool Chisel-like tool for engraving.

Green Gold Gold containing high proportion of silver.

Grey Gold Gold containing high proportion of iron.

Grill Removable jewelry worn over the teeth.

Grisaille Monochromatic painted enamel.

Guilloche Enamel Enamel achieved by engine-turning metal.

Gypsy Setting Stone sunk almost level with the metal surface.

H

Half Moon Cut Gemstone cut resembling half a circle.

Hallmark Stamps attesting to metal purity.

Halo Setting encircling a center stone.

Hammered Finish Creating tiny planes with a hammer.

Hand Engraving Etching designs using hand tools.

Hardness Resistance to being scratched.

Head The portion holding the stone.

Heart Cut Heart-shaped diamond cut.

Heirloom Jewelry descending through generations.

Hematite Iron ore in crystalline form.

Hoop Circular earring passing through the lobe.

Hope Diamond A 45.52 carat blue diamond.

Horn Tortoiseshell substitute.

HPHT High pressure, high temperature: a method of growing diamond by reproducing the pressure and heat under which diamond forms in the earth.

I

IGI International Gemological Institute, an independent laboratory that grades diamonds, including lab-grown diamonds, and colored stones.

Igneous Rock formed by magma or lava.

Imperfection Stone characteristics.

Inclusion Fractures or foreign objects inside a stone.

Ingot Bar of precious metal.

Inlaid Material set into a surface.

Inlay Embedding a stone into metal.

Intaglio Design carved down into a stone.

Interlocking Pieces that lock together.

Intertwined Overlap bands.

Invisible Setting Stones set edge to edge with no visible metal between them.

Iridescent Rainbow-like colors.

Iridium Member of platinum family.

Irradiation Treatment to enhance color.

Ivory Substance from tusks.

J

Jabot pin Jeweled tie pin.

Jade Opaque stone usually in green.

Jadeite Hard, translucent jade.

Jasper Opaque variety of Quartz.

Jet Black variety of fossilized coal.

K

Karat Unit of gold fineness.

Knife Edge Shank forming a middle point.

Knot Interlaced curved metal pieces.

L

Lab-Grown Diamond A diamond grown in a laboratory by chemical vapor deposition (CVD) or high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) growth. It has the same chemical, physical and optical properties as a mined diamond and must be described with a qualifier such as “lab-grown”. Every diamond Peelerie sells is lab-grown.

Lavaliere Chain with a center ornament.

Leakage Light escaping through facets.

Lever Back Earring back using a clasp.

Liquid silver Strands of small silver beads.

Living Jewelry Materials from living organisms.

Locket Hinged opening case.

Logan Sapphire A 422.99 carat blue sapphire.

London Blue Topaz Dark blue-green topaz.

Lost Wax Process Casting using wax and clay.

Loupe Small magnifying glass.

Low-Profile Low-set center stone.

Lucite A clear acrylic plastic.

Luster Light reflected from surface.

M

Mabe Half-formed cultured pearls.

Maltese Cross Shape with four broad arms.

Marcasite Pyrite faceted into rose cuts.

Marquise Cut Diamond cut with points at ends.

Master Stones Diamonds used as key to grade color.

Matching Set with matching elements.

Matte Non-shiny chemical or abrasive finish.

N

Nacre Shiny substance creating pearls.

Natural Diamond A diamond formed in the earth and mined. Peelerie does not sell natural diamonds.

Navette Ring shaped like a marquise.

Necklace Ornament worn around neck.

Negligee Long irregular length necklace.

Nickel Silver A white alloy of copper, nickel and zinc that contains no silver.

Niello Black inlay technique.

O

Oiling Temporary color enhancement.

Old European Cut Antique round diamond cut.

Old Mine Cut Antique cushion diamond cut.

Onyx Black or white semi-precious stone.

Opal Iridescent semi-precious stone.

Opalescent Lustrous cloudy rainbow array.

Opaque Stone allowing no light through.

Open Back Setting Setting where back of stone is visible.

Oppenheimer Diamond A 253.7 carat yellow diamond.

Ore Mineral yielding metal profitably.

Organic Made from living organisms.

Orient Characteristic sheen of pearls.

Oriental Pearl Pearl formed naturally.

Oval Cut Elongated faceted stone.

Oxidation Blackening reaction in metals.

Oxidize Combine with oxygen.

P

Polished Smooth glossy finish.

Pomander Case for scented objects.

Popigai Crater Site of large diamond deposit.

Posy Ring Ring engraved with a verse.

Pot Metal Non-precious alloys.

Precious Gemstone Rare high-value stone.

Precious Metal Rare malleable metals.

Princess Cut Highly faceted square cut.

Prong Setting A setting in which metal claws hold the stone.

Proportion Mathematical symmetry of stone.

Q

Quartz Naturally occurring crystals composed of Silica.

R

Radiant Cut Rectangular gemstone combining emerald shape and brilliant sparkle.

Rails Metal edges lining melee settings.

Refinishing Restoring initial state of finish.

Refraction Changing direction of light wave.

Regard Jewelry spelling a word with stone types.

Relief Raised protrusion from surface.

Repousse Hammered high relief design.

Restoration Restoring aged piece to former appearance.

Rhinestone Faceted glass stone.

Rhodium Platinum family member.

Rhodolite Pink or purple garnet.

Ring Circular band for the finger.

Ring Sizes Standard measurements of a ring’s inside circumference; see our Size Guide.

Riveting Joining two pieces with a metal pin whose ends are flattened to hold them together.

Riviere Continuous line of gemstones necklace.

Rock Crystal See Quartz.

Rolled Gold Gold plating method.

Rondelle Pierced metal between beads.

Rosary Beads for counting prayers.

Rose Cut Flat base and dome multifaceted top.

Rose Finish Look of rose gold without gold content.

Rose Gold Gold alloyed with copper.

Rose Quartz Translucent milky-pink quartz.

Rosser Reeves Ruby A 138.7 carat star ruby.

Round Cut Most common cutting style.

Rubellite Red or pink tourmaline.

Ruby Red corundum from chromium oxide.

Rutilated Quartz with inclusion of rutile.

S

Safety Catch Securing brooch with swiveling lock.

Salt-and-Pepper Diamond Diamond with black-and-white inclusions.

Sand Casting Casting with packed sand.

Sandblasted Intentionally abraised coarse finish.

Sapphire Gem variety of corundum.

Signet Private seal impressed in wax.

Silver Tone Plated or coated silver look.

Simulated Stones Imitation substances.

Single-cut Diamonds A small round diamond with 17 or 18 facets, often used as accent stones.

Slide Jeweled fastener on chain.

Smoky Quartz Cloudy brown to dark quartz.

Snake Chain Flexible tube chain.

Solder Joining metals with melted alloy.

Soldering Applying molten metal to join.

Solitaire Ring with single stone.

Sparkle Reflecting bright points of light.

Spinel Magnesium and aluminum oxide stone.

Split Prong Split prong holding stone.

Split Ring Resembling key-ring finding.

Split Shank Band parting near the head.

Spring Ring Common kind of clasp.

Square Band Not rounded at edges.

Square Cut Resembling emerald cut.

Stabilized Turquoise Treated turquoise.

Stackable Rings Intended to be worn on top of each other.

Stainless Steel Steel alloy with chromium.

Stamping Cut or emboss metal with mark.

Star 129 Round diamond with 129 facets.

Step Cut Long rectangular facets.

Sterling Silver An alloy of 92.5% silver and 7.5% other metals, usually copper, marked .925.

Stomacher Large bodice ornament.

Strap Necklace Mesh chain with fringe pendants.

Strapwork Interlaced straight bands motif.

Stud Minimalist focal point on post.

Super Fit Ring Ring that opens and closes.

Swag Festoons of foliage and fruit.

Symmetry Uniformity of gemstone cut.

Synthetic Gemstones Laboratory produced stone.

T

Table Large facet capping the crown.

Table Percentage The width of the table facet expressed as a percentage of the stone’s diameter.

Table-cut See step cut.

Tahitian Pearl Black lip oyster pearl.

Tanzanite Brilliant violet gemstone.

Tapered Gradually smaller toward one end.

Tapered Baguette Trapezoid cut stone.

Tarnish Dulled luster from thin deposits.

Tennis Bracelet Continuous line of gemstones.

Tension Setting Stone held by pressure.

Terminal Decorated ends of necklace.

Textured Surface that is not smooth.

Three Stone Ring with three stones in row.

Tiara Crown position head ornament.

Tin Silvery metallic element.

Titanium Strong lightweight metallic element.

Toggle Clasp Ring and bar fastener.

Tolkowsky, Marcel Defined round diamond proportions.

Topaz Aluminum borosilicate stone.

Torsade Twisted strands of pearls.

Tortoise Shell Mottled brown shell material.

Tourmaline Multi-colored complex borosilicate.

Tracer Band Contoured flush band.

Translucent Partially transparent.

Trapezoid Cut Four-sided shape cut.

Trellis Interwoven prong setting.

Tremblant General term for jewelry with a trembling effect.

Trillion Cut Triangular shaped diamond cut.

Tsavorite Green variation of garnet.

Tubogas Flexible tubular chain.

Tungsten Heavy high-melting metallic element.

Turquoise Robin’s egg blue stone.

Tutti Frutti Jewelry set with multi-colored gems in basket design.

Twisted Curved interwoven bands.

Two-Tone Two separate metals soldered.

U

Ultrasonic Cleaning device using waves.

Unisex Jewelry for all sexes.

V

Vermeil Sterling silver plated with a layer of gold of a regulated minimum thickness.

Victorian Designation for 1837-1901 period.

Vintage Recognized enduring piece.

W

Wedding Set Engagement ring and wedding band.

White Gold Gold alloyed with white metals such as palladium or nickel, and often plated with rhodium for a brighter white.

White Metal Non-precious metal combination.

Woven Strands of metal interlaced.

Wrist Watch Watch attached to bracelet.

Y

Yellow Gold Gold alloyed with silver and copper to keep its warm yellow color.

Z

Zinc Lustrous metallic element.

Zircon Common mineral polished into gemstone.

Zoisite Semi-precious variety of colors.